Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Tiger Leaping Gorge - Photos

It is scenary like this which kept me going.
I love the mountains and clear blue skies More Photos Sporean friends we bump during our trekking - dint expect to meet Sporeans thou
Kodak moments .. *Smile*
View of nice mountains from Halfway Guesthouse, even from the common toilets! (which stink?)

Monday, October 23, 2006

1st night at Tiger Leaping Gorge

We opt for a double room with no attached bathroom (RMB60) at halfway guesthouse. The 标间 would have cost us RMB160, my tired brain upon hearing RMB100 more, decide to opt for the cheaper option. But after converting, i realise its SGD20 more which is ok actually considering the situation Im in.

We are so hungry, decide to have dinner before anything else. We had stir-fried brinjai, stir-fried chicken, tomato & egg soup. And not forgetting beer ! So nice to have fantastic food when you are tired and hungry.

Knowing that our new Sporean best friend has a 标间, we decide to be thick-skinned and ask if we could use their bathroom for bathing instead of the common bathroom. :P
I left <<导游>> to use her charm to make this request.

Mission succeeded !

They are really gentleman. They left us alone in their room while we are bathing, sayinjg that they will go take a walk ? But there is actually no place to take a walk ! It is just the guesthouse .. and the compound is not huge at all ? Very gentleman indeed !

*Hear from others next morning that the hot water wasnt hot at all at the common bathroom!Luckily we have them, if not, we would have freeze our butt off!*

Went out for star grazing, not too bad, saw quite a no. of stars. But it was just too freaking cold to stand long to admire and enjoy !

Nitez and sweet dreams ! :)

2nd Day @ Tiger Leaping Gorge

Woke up @ 830am. Had a good night sleep. Think Im just too tired.
Decide to finish the <<八宝粥>> that we have brought along to lighten the weight of my bag.
It taste just like our dessert - 黑糯米. Not too bad la.



<<导游>> was only gamed enough to try a spoon of it.
I also ordered their apple pie (lonely planet has recommended it). Dont like it .. so oily !
Only appreciate the apples inside, been long time since I ate apples!

Set off @ 1015am. The route today is much easier as compared to yesterday.
Today, we will stay a night at Sean's place @ Walnut Garden. By 115 pm, we reached Sean's place.

Decide to pamper myself today - stayed in 标间 (RMB140). Love the room, hot shower and TV.. :) We had fried noodle, tomato & egg soup, Dali Beer. The noodle was dry and starchy, not nice! But the soup was good. On the whole, the dinner @ Halfway Guesthouse was better.

Not long after, was surprised to see our Sporean best friend, thought they would have left TLG to catch a bus to go Zhongdian.
Apparently, they have taken the 天梯 from Tina's Guesthouse to go all the way down to the Gorge. They keep on encouraging us to try the route too. But, we are happy to just sit there and chill-out with the beautiful scenary in front.

Finally, decide to move our butt and take a short walk.
Came back, chit-chat with the Dutch couple. Learnt that they have things like:-
- 30 days of annual leave!
- If they work on weekends, they will be paid 2x & on top of that, they will get a day off!

Maybe, I should go Holland to work instead!

Tonight's stars are really much more and bright than yesterday. Been a long long time since Im able to see so many, can only remember seeing so many was in Nepal (2002) and Perth (1997).

23rd - 24th - Tiger Leaping Gorge

Taking an early morning bus from Lijiang to Qiaotou.
From there, we will doing trekking at Tiger Leaping Gorge, taking the higher trail.

We will be bringing a day bag for this trek instead of carrying our entire bagpack (obviously I have no energy to carry a 11kg bag and do a trek?)

Start to list down the things that we would need and what we can share so as to keep our bag as light as possible. Can’t believe that we have so much things to bring for just a 2 days trek! Had a tough time trying to stuff them into my day bag! So many things that we are bringing are for “in case”!
Hopefully I can tell myself to be stopped being a "Ni ni" and travel light n in style! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The alarm went off @ 6 am. Have decide to reach the bus station by 7 am so that we can get the tickets (the tickets are only for sale 10 mins b4 departure) for 730 am bus to Qiaotou. Early morning, I discover that I have strike lottery ! or I should say 中马票也没有这么准! Why am i a girl ?!

Dint managed to find the bus station after walking for 15 mins in the direction as advised by the locals. Bo bian! Have to catch a cab now ! Should have taken right from the beginning since it would cost the same - RMB7 ?!
We then realise that the station is actualy pretty far and according to the locals, it is very near - walk to the first traffic junction then turn right. The first traffic junction actually needs a good half an hr walk ??! Maybe thats only 1 traffic junction at this town !

Reach the station @ 7 am. Guess what ?! The tickets are sold out for 730 am ?! How can that be when the tickets sales ARE SUPPOSE to start only at 720 am ?! 导游 was fumming mad. I was pretty cool about it, in China, you just have to be prepared to accept all this kind of crap. They dont fazed me anymore, maybe because I have lived with them for a yr .

We just have to settle for 830 am one instead.

Met a dutch couple, helped them to get their tickets. A french couple approached us after knowing that we can speak English and Chinese. Apparently, they have been ripped off ! The train station actually sold them the tickets (RMB70) to Zhongdian and asking them to just alight at Qiaotou. Whereas, our tickets to Qiaotou is only RMB15. 导游 tried to help them to change their tickets. In situations like this, Im very grateful that Im effectively bilingual.

70% of the passengers were ang mohs. However, there was this local lady who is from other province. She is just like a LOUD HAILER ! She talk so loud and non-stop ! Kept yakking away ! Maybe, its because she is travelling alone ? So have to talk at every opportunity ? DUHZ !

She actually say this :-
“韩国只要待一天就够了!去这个地方转一转,拍拍照就行了."
My eyes just rolled hearing comments like this ! She might as well stay at home to look at otos of different country !

Finally we alight at Qiaotou. The entrance fee is RMB50. However, with our "student pass", we only had to pay RMB25!

--insert photos---

Will be leaving our main bagpack at "Tiger Gorge Cafe"- a very popular place for among trekkers to leave their bags here at at cost of RMB5 regardless of duration. Bump into this "Sporean couple" at the cafe - George and Alvis. We decide to do the trek together.

Me and 导游 suddenly have this telepathy between both of us, gave each other a knowing look.
Well ... not long after we started walking, George declared "Alvis and I are in a relationship." Ha ! Our "Gaydar" function perfectly well even thou we are in China!

Just half an hr into our trek, I start to feel giddy! Oh man .. what is wrong with me? Decide to sound the alarm to the rest, sat down on the rocks and took a break. Not going to act strong, then later fell off the cliff and burden 导游. Start to have doubts at my fitness level ... all these running have no use at all ? :o(
Begining to feel better after the break ... continue with our trek! Reached our Naxi Family Guesthouse @ 1pm, after 1.5 hrs of walking. Had lunch there.

After our much needed break, we have to continue our trek. The much known 28 bends is waiting for us - uphill all the way till the top of the 28th bend. According to the map we had, it will take us 1.5hrs (3km) to reach the top of the bend.

Barely 15 mins of walking uphill, tiredness set in again ! Doubtful thoughts start seeping into my brain.

- Can I finish the 28 bends and reach the guesthouse before it is dark?
- Here I am, just panting away, not even enjoying the scenary, just thinking of whether I can complete it . Why did i put myself into all this 自我虐待 activities ?
- Am i really so weak, considering I have been running so much? Im just like all the other typical weak girls !
- Maybe I should had just take the lower trails, sit in the comfort of the bus. Stop at touristy n scenic spot to pose and take photos. Telling people I have been to Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Was also thinking if running a marathon is tougher or this trek ?!

Wah .. was even more demotivated when I realise the earlier slopes werent the start of the 28 bends! Fwah ... die lor.

Maybe my mind was just not willing to be defeated, somehow or other, I make it to the top of the 28 bend ! Yippee ! The tough part is over !

Reach 茶马客栈 at 5 pm. The earlier advise that we got was that we can continue to walk to Halfway Guesthouse if we reached here before 5pm. We decide that we will be able to reach Halfway Guesthouse before dark.

The route from 茶马 to Halfway was just a flat route. Very easy to walk as compared to the rest. By 615pm, we reached Halfway.

Sunday, October 22, 2006

22nd Oct - 拉市海

Woke up @ 7 am today !
Had arranged for a transport to bring us from 古城 to 拉市海. A short 45 mins ride, we reached.

拉市海- 位于丽江县成西面8公里,是个观看日出日落的好地方。拉市海是一个湿地自然保护区,高原湖泊水平如镜,玉龙雪山的倒影清晰可见。
Quite a nice place with a lake (Yes .. Its a lake, not 海) & a vast piece of grassland with horses. Apparently, the place is not accessible on foot, we need to be horse-riding. They have a few horse-riding package and they are not cheap ! (ok .. the price is ok for horse-riding, but not cheap for China std!) We chose the package which will cost us RMB380, after some bargaining, the boss agreed to be @ RMB300 (Yes .. everything can be bargain in China!)


Got ourselves up the horse. Start to feel abit scare ! Paranoid thoughts start coming to my mind. Things like - what if I fall off the horse-back, break my head n bleed profusely! Seriously, you wont want to get injured in China and visit their hospital ! This is the last thing i wan to do ! The 师夫 asked me to hold the reins myself, I started to protest! Hearing me scream, he took back the reins.
<<导游>> have to DIY then, since we only have one 马夫.

We started the journey on the grassland. I can see some fears from 导游's eyes. At that point, I was glad that I dont need to maneuver the horse ! :P

We pass by many farms, with the mountains, blue skies and white clouds as backdrop ! The air is so fresh ! Funnily, the song <<康定情歌>>, came to my head. Maybe, been drinking too much China water! haha


Dint manage to go 七彩湖 as they are maintaining the roads leading there.

Went to 原头,it is like a mini waterfall. Actually the scenary reminds me very much of the kind of "waterfall photo" you find many yrs back then come with a clock face ?

Since we cant go to 七彩湖, we told the 师夫 to let us ride around the grassland longer. After > 1 hr on the horse, was feeling quite comfortable and gamed for the idea of "riding the horse" myself. Requested to hold the rein myself, but was turned down flatly ....... because the young horse Im on will go wild on the grass ! So basically, I dint have a chance to really RIDE A HORSE ?

The 师夫 also offered to give us a free boat ride ! :) Was really nice and relaxing ! During our horse-ride around the village, we saw alot of Propaganda like these below.

They will have things like :-

1) Having 1 child will means more wealth to the family;

Looking more relaxed and at ease

I really admired 导游for being so brave to maneuver the horse all by herself throughout the whole journey !

Lijiang - Clean Toilets !

Have already noticed that in the 古城, public toilets are easily spotted. They look really nice and new outside, but we dont have much faith in the interior (for obvious reasons) Never considered visiting them unless it is very very necessary!

And the time came when it was very very necessary for me to use the public toilet !

It will cost RM0.50 to use these toilets, more expensive than the ones at bus station - RMB0.30.

WAH ! Oh man ! I WAS REALLY IMPRESSED !
I enjoyed the toilet experience !

I just have to visit it again to take photos and blog about it !

Nice wooden doors with craving to greet you

Its well worth every single cents !

Oh .. did i forget to mention there was a small screen showing MTV in each cubicle ?!

Blue Skies of Lijiang

I like this photo alot !
That kind of "picture perfect" background. Clear blue skies that is peppered with some fluffy white clouds
Shows the clear blue skies of Lijiang. Something which you wont find in Spore.

Photos

I think they are call "dates"? One of my fav food when I was in China. So happy to found them this time again !

Sweet corn !! My favourite ! Surprisingly the ones at Yunnan taste pretty sweet as compared to the ones i get from Dalian

They actually put our nationality on the receipt ? Hmmmm

22nd Oct - Lijiang

The driver dropped us off just slightly outside the 古城, she recommended us this place which is patronise by the locals. To eat at the 古城 will be a ripped off as it is catered for the tourists.

However, we found the place she recommend abit dodgy.
Decide to walk down to other shops instead. Chanced upon a guy making 刀削面, decide to give it a try.

Since we have never seen the making of 刀削面 before, we decide to take a photo of him in action. Whipping out the camera was a "mistake", it immediately warrant an astonished face from the chef and the locals at the shop !

He couldnt resist and blurted out .. "你的地方没有刀削面? Suddenly it seems like we are ailens from other planets - how can they not have 刀削面? All eyes were on us now ! Now we cant disguise ourselves as locals ! Darned !

刀削面是山西人民日常喜食的面食. The chef will have a dough in his hand, uses a knife and start shaving pieces of noodle out from the dough. 它同北京的打卤面山东的伊府面河南的鱼焙面四川的担担面,同称为五大面食名品,享有盛誉。

The noodles were pretty good. A bowl will only cost you RMB3 !

Saturday, October 21, 2006

21st Oct - Lijiang


Doesnt this remind you of Vienna ?













21st Oct - Happening night @ Lijiang!

Wah ! 丽江古城 is really HAPPENING at night !
They have something like 酒吧一条街。It was really crowded with the locals and tourists!
Not only were they drinking, they were also singing to their heart content !

Arent they wild ? Sitting on the roof

There were groups of people singing at opposite side of the stream, and they will pass "the singing baton" to the group opposite.
They will say something like “Yang1 Shuo4 Yang1 Shuo Yang1 Yang1 Shuo4"
This means that the "baton" is pass and the other group will need to follow up with a song.
It reminded me of us doing CHEERS during school days.

Tourists gathering round !

Managed to find the Prague Cafe to find out more about 梅丽雪山, we wanted to see if there are any tours from Lijiang ? and the dangers or difficulties that we will faced if we are going to go without joining a tour.

Managed to find out more from the Mongolian guy who have been running such tours at 梅丽雪山 and 虎跳峡. After our conversation with him, having some reservations about doing the trekking there alone. Will see how bah !

He reminded alot of my ex-colleague from Dalian who was also a Mongolian. Somehow, the way they talk is the same !

21st Oct - 1st night @ Lijiang

We had dinner @ Lamu Tibetian Cafe. I like this Place ! It is a 2-storey Cafe with Al-fresco dinning on the 2nd floor, plenty of books/magazines for you to browse ! You can just sit on their balcony, and see the world goes by below you !

Our 1st group photo

We had Tibetian Momo, Stir-fried veges, Tibetian style tomato soup. The soup is just like some diluted pasta. But its actually quite nice !

We had bought tickets to watch Naxi performance. The chief of the orchestra was pretty humourous to a certain extent. Wont say I enjoy the performance since it is not the kind of music I would appreciate ? Think more suitable for my dad ? :P

Bad concert attitude was displayed by the Chinese ! *UGH!* Talking on the handphone during the performance ? It was not just for 3 mins ... it was for a full 10 mins ?!?! Playing with their plastic mineral bottles ?! Will they be ready for 2008 ?

玉龙雪山 @ Lijiang

Located 35km from Lijiang, soaring to 5596m.

Recently, Zhang Yimou directed a folk musical << 印象丽江>> against the natural setting of 玉龙雪山.

The audience will have a full view of the show staged on a round platform at an altitude of 3,100 metres above sea level, most likely the highest theatre in the world. The performance is a window into the local ethnic groups, particularly the Naxi people and their world.

The cast of more than 500 performers are local people of different ethnic groups, coming from 16 villages across Yunnan. When they recited poems and introduced themselves, they spoke Putonghua (Mandarin) with strong accents.

But too bad, I dint get to watch this musical. Watch it if you all have a chance !

The tickets are easily available are the tickets booth @ the old town itself. If I dint remember wrong, the tickets are priced @ RMB179 each. You will need find your own transport (either by public bus or hire a taxi) to bring you to the foot of the mountain. It is not too far from the old town itself.

21st Oct - Lijiang

Wow! Have survived the bus ride! Apparently, it take only around 9 hrs, we reached around 615 am. I did managed to sleep (here and there), but woke up several times during the night. I had some weird dreams. Really weird and bizzare ! Woke up with a backache! The bus ride was pretty bumpy, with several toilet breaks.

Can feel the morning coldness. Luckily, the bus driver only require us to get down the bus at around 730 am. Several locals at the bus station, start to approach us, asking if we need any accomodation, taxi to the old town, guided tours.

Ignoring all of them. We start to walk from the bus station to 丽江古城. In no time, we reach the old town. Decide to turn in. Almost all the shops or hostels (Yes .. they close their doors) are not open. Walked down several lanes, look pretty confusing, the maps wasnt helpful at all.

After many turns, we finally reached 四方街 (this is like the old town city centre). We decide to start looking for our accomodations. Walked into several hostels, check their rates, start bargaining. Finally, we settled for 茶马客栈,since we are begining to feel the weight of our bags.
The price was reasonable, RMB70 for a 标间 (room with attached bathroom) with 24 hrs hot water (yes .. dont always assume they have hot water !)

Since our room was not ready, we left our bags with them and went to look for breakfast !
We had 云南粑粑 for breakfast at this small alley. We walked back to 四方街 in a bid to look for more food. Its around 9 am now, and the crowd are coming in - there are group and group of tourists ! *Horrible!*

<<导游>> wanted something hot. We went into this vegetarian place and ordered soya milk. This one taste quite similar to the ones we have in Spore, but super diluted ! The ones I had in China before had a much stronger soya taste, which I am not used to it.

1 lady approached us whilst in the cafe. She recommended us to go 拉市海。This place was not mentioned at all by Lonely planet, however, it was featured in the chinese guidebook. Maybe, this is not a place for Westerners ? After some discussion, we decide to go tommorrow, the transport will cost us RMB40 to and fro.

Went to Naxi Family place for lunch. We order (1) stir-fried Brinjai, (2) Tofu & vege soup, (3) Chinese sausage and (4) 鸡豆凉粉 - this is one of Lijiang 特色小吃.

鸡豆是一种豆类,产于高海拔地区,产量极低,由该种豆制作的凉粉, 有冷热两种。

Dont like the dish though, it is like eating some flour like stuff being fried. Carbo-loading ??

Walk around the old town, it seems like all the road will eventually leads back to 四方街.

Went up to 文昌宫, you can have a good overview of 丽江古城.

Started to rain. Decide to take a break @ SAKURA restaurant. This place is opened by a Korean who married a Chinese. They actually have a wide selection of food - Korean, Chinese, Japanese, Chinese and English.